Anti-irritant: Avemide15ᵀᴹ is an anti-irritant which is designed to help reduce skin irritation and redness. It also has antioxidant and antihistamine properties to help reduce topical sensitivity¹.

Reduces redness and stinging: Avemide15ᵀᴹ is designed to help calm and soothe the skin during and after exfoliation, reducing the redness and tingling/stinging sensation that can occur after exfoliating.

1. DRAGO-CALM: Anti-irritant, Anti-oxidant, Anti-Histaminic. PowerPoint Presentation. Symrise.

Skin barrier support and moisture retention: Reduction in ceramide levels leads to increased moisture loss from the skin and skin dryness². Use of ceramide-containing products can help reinforce the skin barrier and reduce moisture loss from the skin.

2. Hon KL, Leung AK, Barankin B. Barrier Repair Therapy in Atopic Dermatitis: An Overview. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2013; 14:389- 399.

Helps protect skin: Its thick, viscous nature, makes for an excellent barrier on the skin to help prevent chaffing, nappy rash and other forms of skin irritation caused by friction and exposure to water-soluble irritants.

Occlusive and moisturising: The ability of Dimethicone to form a barrier on the skin also makes it effective for use as an occlusive. Occlusives help prevent moisture in the skin from evaporating.

Low irritant potential: Sodium PCA is non-irritating and non-sensitising with and without UV exposure³.

Enhances skin ability to hold water: Components of NMF are hydrophilic water soluble substances that enhance the skin's ability to hold water⁴. Sodium PCA helps supplement the skin NMF, leaving the skin feeling soft and supple.

3. 2012 CIR Compendium. Washington, D.C.: Cosmetic Ingredient Review; 2012, p. 178.

4. Greenberg S. Humectants and Polyols. In: Schlossman ML, editor. The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics. Volume 3 Ingredients. Illinois: Allured Publishing Corporation 2002. p.484.

Excellent skin moisturiser and conditioner: Moisturisers containing glycerin can produce long-lasting moisturisation by minimising water loss⁵.

Helps protect against irritation: 10% Glycerine in a topical emulsion can help prevent the irritation and dehydration effects of washing the skin, including when Sodium Lauryl Sulphate is used as the detergent⁶.

Helps to retain moisture in the skin: At high humidity, Glycerine acts as a humectant, while at low humidity it acts as a skin moisturiser and conditioner by inhibiting lipid phase transition⁶.

5. Rawlings AV, Canestrari DA, Dobkowski B (2004) Moisturizer technology versus clinical performance. Dermatol Ther 17(suppl1): 49-565.

6. Greive K. Glycerine: The Naturally Effective Humectant. Dermatological Nursing 2012; 11(1): 30-34.

Increases skin exfoliation: Lactic Acid has been shown to increase skin exfoliation in conjunction with its skin renewal activity⁷. It has been hypothesized that this is the result of the dissolution of the protein linkages between the skin cells⁷. Once the cells are detached from the body of the skin they are sloughed off.

Decreases the formation of dry skin: AHAs in general increase plasticization and decrease the formation of dry, flaky scales on the skin’s surface⁸.

Moisturising: AHAs have been shown to reduce transepidermal water loss⁹ improving the water content of the skin. AHAs have also been found to improve skin texture, improve skin brightness, improve firmness and decrease wrinkling⁸.

7. Smith W. Hydroxy acids and skin aging. In AHA’s & Cellulite Products. How they work. C&T Ingredient resources series. Cosmet Toiletries1995; 9-14.

8. Berardesca E, Maibach H. AHA Mechanisms of action. Cosmetics & Toiletries. 110:30-31. 1995.

9. Branna T. AHAs Attract Cosmetic Chemists. happi May 1994; 96-98.

Helps maintain normal skin barrier function and reduces skin sensitivity: Topical application of 2% Nicotinamide has shown to improve the barrier properties of the skin and reduce skin sensitivity¹⁰.

Helps to moisturise dry skin¹¹: The topical application of 2% Nicotinamide is shown to significantly reduce transepidermal water loss.

Helps to improve the appearance of skin tone and texture¹²: Topical application of 5% Nicotinamide was shown to improve the appearance of aged and photodamaged skin and a reduction in hyperpigmentation¹².

10. Yakota T, Matsumoto M, Sakamaki T et al. Classification of sensitive skin and development of a treatment system appropriate for each group. IFSCC Magazine 2003; 6(4): 303-7.

11. Soma Y, Kashima M, Imaizumi A et al. Moisturising effects of topical nicotinamide on atopic dry skin. Int J Dermatol 2005 ; 43 : 197-202.

12. Matts PJ, Oblong JE and Bissett DL. A review of the range of effects of niacinamide in human skin. IFSCC Magazine. 2002; 5(4): 285-289.

Penetrating: When Panthenol is applied to our skin, it results in a conversion to Pantothenic Acid. This acid penetrates into the epidermis, because it is readily absorbed by the skin¹³.

Protecting: Penetrates the stratum corneum to promote lipid synthesis and improves the barrier function of the skin¹⁴. Panthenol helps relieve systemic itching, whilst also helping to soothe dry and irritated skin¹⁴.

Hydrating: Pantothenic Acid works as a humectant, by attracting the moisture via absorption and retaining that moisture deep within the skin¹⁴.

13. Choi CM, Berson MD. Cosmeceuticals. Semin Cutan Med Surg 2006; 25:163-168.

14. Ebner F, Heller A, Rippke F, Tausch I. Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. Am J Clin Dermatol 2002; 3(6): 427-433.37

Safe for prolonged use: Critical analysis of studies into the toxicity of mineral oils such as Paraffinum Liquidum has shown that it is safe for prolonged use¹⁵.

Rarely causes allergic reactions: Allergic reactions to Paraffinum Liquidum are infrequent considering its widespread use in topical products¹⁶.

Non-comedogenic: Highly refined and purified mineral oils, such as Paraffinum Liquidum found in cosmetic and skincare products are non-comedogenic¹⁷ (does not clog pores).

Highly efficacious moisturising ingredient: Paraffinum liquidum keeps the skin moist and supple by providing a protective film and controlling the passage of water into and out of the skin¹⁸.

15. Nash JF, Gettings SD, Diembeck W, Chudowski M, Kraus AL. A toxicological review of topical exposure to white mineral oils. Food Chem Toxicol 1996; 34(2): 213-225.

16. Hunting ALL. Encyclopedia of Conditioning Rinse Ingredients. London: Micelle Press; 1987.p.280-281.

17. Lanzet M. Comedogenic effects of cosmetic raw materials. Cosmet Toiletries. 1986; 101: 63-72.

18. Rawlings AV and Lombard KJ. A review on the extensive benefits of mineral oil. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2012; 34: 511-518.

Contributes to skin barrier properties: It penetrates the uppermost stratum corneum layers, passing into the intercellular phase. Rather than integrating with the natural intercellular layer, it is distributed throughout the stratum corneum as a separate phase, thus contributing to the skin’s natural barrier properties¹⁹.

Reduces transepidermal water loss: The application of petroleum jelly to the skin in vivo can immediately reduce transepidermal water loss by 40-50%²⁰.

Low irritancy rating: Widely recognised as being innocuous and non-allergenic²¹. Only rarely are sensitisation reactions reported²² and petrolatum presents few, if any, safety or toxicological problems²³.

19. Idson B. Dry Skin – Moisturising and Emolliency. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 107(7):69-78, 1992

20. Harry’s Cosmetology 8th edition. Ed. Reiger MM. Pub. Chemical Publishing Co, New York. 2000 p326,327

21. Braun-Falco, Plewig G, Wolff HH, Winkelmann RK. Dermatology. Published by Springer-Verlag, Berlin. 1991, p1146

22. Fisher AA. ‘Contact Dermatitis’ Third Edition p 148,149 (Lea and Febiger, Philadelphia, 1986)

23. Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients. A joint publication of the American Pharmaceutical Association and the Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain. Pub. The Pharmaceutical Press, London. 1986 p194-195.

Moisturising: Safflower Oil is an occludent moisturiser²⁴ which assists in reducing the effect of moisture loss²⁵.

Anti-inflammatory: Chemically induced irritant and allergic contact dermatitis has been shown to be relieved by the topical application of Linoleic Acid²⁶.

Skin renewal: The topical application of Linoleic Acid has been shown to promote skin renewal by increasing the turnover of the stratum corneum²⁷. The topical application of Linoleic Acid has also been found to correct excessive DNA synthesis, and the related excessive thickening of the skin (acanthosis, hypergranulosis, hyperkeratosis), thus returning the skin to its normal condition²⁸.

Anti-acne: It has been found that the topical application of a 2.5% Linoleic Acid gel to mild acne, reduced the size of follicular casts and microcomedones, with an overall size reduction of 25% achieved in a 1 month period²⁹.

24. International cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. Volume 1. 14th ed. USA: Personal Care Products Council; 2012. p 544.

25. Idson B: Dry skin: Moisturising and emolliency. Cosmetics and Toiletries. 107:69-78. 1992.

26. Sheu MY, Fowler AJ, Kao J et al: Topical peroxisome proliferator activated receptor-alpha activators reduce inflammation in irritant and allergic contact dermatitis models. J Invest Dermatol. 118(1):94-101. 2002.

27. Ando H, Ryu A, Hashimoto A et al: Linoleic acid and alpha-linoleic acid lightens ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation of the skin. Arch Dermatol Res. 290(7):375-381. 1998.

28. Lowe NJ: Essential fatty acid deficient hairless mouse: the effects of topical agents on the epidermis. British Journal of Dermatology. 97:39-47. 1977.

29. Letawe C, Boone M and Pierard GE: Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones. Clin Exp Dermatol. 23(2):56-58. 1998.

Non-irritant: Usage levels range from 0.1% to greater than 50% and is a safe cosmetic ingredient as used in current practices and concentrations³⁰.

Moisturising: Commonly used in topical preparations as an emollient^31-32, lubricant and humectant³¹.

30. Final report on the safety assessment of squalane and squalene. Int J Toxicol 1982; 1(2):37-56.

31. Rosenthal ML. Squalane: the natural moisturizer. In: Schlossman MI, editor. The chemistry and manufacture of cosmetics.Illinois: Allured Publishing Corporation; 2002. p869-875.

32. Squalane. In: Sweetman SC, editor. Martindale the complete drug reference. London: Pharmaceutical Press; 2007. 1850-1.

Photoprotection: Physical UV blocker with a high refractive index, which reflects and scatters ultra-violet radiation, visible light and infrared radiation to help provide photoprotection^33-35.

33. Lowe NJ. The Physicians Guide to Sunscreens. New York: Marcel Dekker Inc; 1991. p4.

34. Fisher AA. Contact dermatitis. 3rd edition. Philadelphia: Lea and Febiger; 1986. p. 467.

35. Dromgoole SH, Maibach HI. Contact sensitization and photocontact sensitization of sunscreen agents. In: Lowe NJ, Shaath NA, editors Sunscreens: Development, Evaluation, and Regulatory Aspects. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc; 1990. p. 313.

Helps repair, protect and smoothe skin: Vitamin E has been found to help protect from UV-induced erythema^36-37 and roughness³⁸, improve the appearance of age spots, increase elasticity and skin barrier function³⁹, and smooth fine lines and wrinkles⁴¹.

Anti-pruritic: Topical Vitamin E has also been found to reduce irritation related itch³⁸.

Antioxidant: Vitamin E has been shown to be beneficial in preventing UV-induced free radical formation, protecting endogenous epidermal antioxidants and preventing lipid peroxidation^40-41. In addition, studies have shown that Vitamin E can reduce UVB induced erythema⁴¹, and wrinkling^42-43.

36. Potapenko AY, Abieva GA, Pliquett F. Inhibition of erythema of the skin photosensitizes with 8-methoxypsoralene by α-tocopherol. Bull Exp Biol Med 1980;89:611-615

37. Dreher F, Denig N, Gabard B, Schwindt DA, Maibach HI. Effect of topical antioxidants on UV-induced erythema formation when administered after exposure. Dermatology 1999;198:52-55.

38. Möller H, Ansmann A, Wallat S. The effects of Vitamin E on the skin in topical applications. Lecture presented at the DGF Vitamin E symposium in Bochum, March 4,1989.

39. Idson B. Vitamins in emolliency and moisturizing preparations Cosmetics and Toiletries 1976;93(8):77-79.

40. Sorg O, Tran C, Saurat JH. Cutaneous vitamins A and E in the context of ultraviolet-or chemically-induced oxidative stress. Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology 2001;14:363-372.

41. Yuen KS, Halliday GM. Tocopherol, an inhibitor of epidermal lipid peroxidation, prevents ultraviolet radiation from suppressing the skin immune system. Photochemistry and Photobiology 1997;65(3):587-592.

42. Bissett DL, Chatterjee R Hannon DP. Protective effect of a topically applied anti-oxidant plus an anti-inflammatory agent against ultraviolet radiation-induced chronic skin damage in the hairless mouse. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 1992;43:85-92.

43. Bissett DL, Hillebrand GG, Hannon DP. The hairless mouse as a model of skin photoaging: its use to evaluate photoprotective materials. Photodermatology 1989;6:228-233.

Helps protect skin: Zinc oxide form a protective barrier on the skin and helps mitigate the effects of bacteria and other irritants on the skin.

Helps soothe skin irritation: Zinc oxide is also used to help prevent dry flaky skin. The antibacterial properties make it a common ingredient in antiseptic ointments to help relieve itchiness, and to help protect irritated skin.